Whenever
I see a news report of volcanic eruptions anywhere, I relive vivid memories of
the terror my (now ex-) husband, Paul, and I suffered in 1979 in Indonesia,
although it would seem our experience was mild in comparison to most reported
eruptions. That weekend in August promised to be an adventure; we had no
idea just how close to death we would come.
Along
with three other Australian expatriates living in Jakarta, we signed up for a
trip to Krakatoa, west of Java (the film title is wrong),
arranged by the Diplomatic Club. There were groups from all over the
world on the tour, including Canada, France, Britain, USA, Germany and
elsewhere and we were all eager to get a close look at the famous volcano.
Krakatau,
as it is known in Indonesia, erupted in August 1883 after 200 years of slumber,
killing approximately 36,000 people. It was a blast that “shook the
world”, sending shock waves around the world more than seven times and debris
80km into the atmosphere, blotting out the sun. Pumice stone rained on
Alice Springs. We intrepid adventurers couldn’t help but feel a tingle of
excitement as we drew closer to our destination.
From
the beach at Cerita on the western shore of Java, our departure point, we had
seen a plume of smoke marking the spot and as the boat drew closer, were
treated to a remarkable sight. The force of the 1883 eruption had split
the crater into several small islands and in the middle was the crater now
known as “Child of Krakatau”. As our boat circled the island, we jostled
for position, cameras clicking madly trying to get the best possible shots of
the eruptions. A French vulcanologist in our party told us that the volcano
became active around August every year.
The
crater island itself was breathtaking. Everything was black and shades of
grey. Even the water surrounding the island appeared black because of the
thick layer of ash below. One small stand of straggly pines on a
peninsular furthest from the crater offered the only colour in this
inhospitable landscape. Sulphur fumes reached us on the breeze but were
not overpowering. Soon the boat had beached and we were swimming in the
“black sea” then eating our lunch, preparing for the trek up for a better view
of the “show”.
A high
ridge that had probably been the crater rim some years ago circled the active
crater. Each eruption sent fiery projectiles hurtling into the valley
formed between the crater and the ridge. After watching for a while, we
realised there was a small eruption every five minutes or so for a period of
half an hour or so, then a larger outburst before the cycle started again.
Groups
started forging their way to the top of the ridge to watch Mother Nature’s
fireworks. Impatient to be off, Paul started without me accompanying two
other Australians, Annette and Steve. Annette’s husband, Gary and I found
the water too inviting and decided to prolong our swim, promising to join them
shortly, maybe. We watched our mates follow a shorter path to the top of
the ridge than the rest of the group, and seeing that the climb didn’t look too
strenuous after all, we set off after them.
A
spectacular view of the spewing crater was our reward as we joined our
partners. After watching the show for a while, we took turns have our
photographs taken, capturing an eruption as a splendid backdrop in each snap
shot.
We were
waiting for the big explosion when an almighty roar from the crater sent us scurrying
back down the slope, running for our lives. The large eruption we had
been expecting was far stronger than any we had previously witnessed and we
could see it was about to fire rocks over the ridge and down the slope we had
just climbed. Someone yelled, “Run!” and we turned and ran as one, trying
desperately to get to the beach and safety.
I
remember concentrating on pumping my arms and legs as hard as I could and being
amazed that I was keeping pace with Steve who was renowned for his running prowess.
I can still remember the sound of the rocks whizzing through the air and the
noise of one particularly large one landing with a loud “Whump!” beside my left
leg. I know I was terrified and the feeling of relief when I realised the
deadly rain had stopped, was unforgettable. We stopped short of the beach
to recoup and count our blessings.
The
Canadians in an approaching group told us that we had looked like we were
reenacting a scene from a war movie, running frantically, zigzagging and
ducking enemy bombs. I doubt our nervous laughter fooled anyone.
The French vulcanologists told us we should have faced the eruption, stood our
ground and dodged any rocks that came our way. Easy, if you know how, we
supposed.
How all
five of us managed to avoid being hit by one of those deadly missiles is
anyone’s guess. Volcanic rock when flung from the crater is so hot that
even a tiny piece would have burnt a hole through our bodies. A larger
piece could have sheared off limbs. Death would have been almost certain
in that unfriendly place so far from adequate medical assistance. Despite
our shock at such a close call, we all put on brave faces, making light of our
torrid time. We were pleased when it was time to leave for the mainland.
The
voyage back was probably the worst boat trip Paul and I had ever endured
because of an extremely uncomfortable journey in mountainous seas caused by an
approaching storm. We looked back towards the island and in the darkness,
enjoyed one of Nature’s best pyrotechnic displays. The extraordinary
sight of brilliant, red lava slowing boiling from the crater was a vision we
will remember for the rest of our lives.
We
didn’t succumb to the effects of seasickness felt by most of our fellow
passengers, arriving back on Java with our lunch intact. Ironically, I
found I would feel sick later whenever I tried to talk about our
experience. The thought of being so close to death was hard to come to
terms with. I used to dream about the noise of that big rock landing near
my leg and it was many months before I felt comfortable discussing the trip at
all.
Later,
we discovered that the boat owners had broken the law by allowing us to land on
the island. Boats were not allowed within two kilometres of the smoking
volcano. Even so, we have no regrets about that trip now, and consider it
an unforgettable part of our life tapestry.